Roofing is priced per "square" — a 10×10 foot area (100 sq ft). A typical home has 20–35 squares. Here's what you should expect to pay per square, fully installed, in 2025–2026:

• 3-tab asphalt shingles: $350–$550/square. The budget option with a 15–20 year lifespan. Fine for starter homes or rentals, but they look dated fast.
• Architectural asphalt shingles: $450–$750/square. The most popular choice for good reason — they last 25–30 years, look better, and handle wind better than 3-tab.
• Standing seam metal: $800–$1,400/square. Lasts 40–60 years, excellent in snow and wind. Higher upfront cost but often the best long-term value.
• Concrete tile: $800–$1,200/square. Popular in the Southwest. Heavy — your structure needs to support the weight. Lasts 50+ years.
• Cedar shake: $700–$1,100/square. Beautiful but high-maintenance. Requires regular treatment and has fire concerns in some areas.
• Slate: $1,500–$3,000/square. The premium option. Lasts 75–100+ years but requires specialized installers and structural support.

For a typical 2,000 sq ft home (roughly 25 squares), a full architectural shingle replacement runs $11,000–$19,000. Metal roofing for the same home runs $20,000–$35,000.

A complete roofing quote should itemize all of these — not bundle them into one mysterious number:

• Tear-off and disposal: $1,000–$3,000. Removing the old roof and disposing of debris. Some areas allow a second layer over existing shingles, but it's not ideal.
• Decking repair: Quoted per sheet of plywood at $75–$125/sheet. A good contractor will note they'll inspect decking after tear-off and charge for replacements as needed.
• Underlayment: $0.50–$1.50/sq ft. Synthetic underlayment is standard now and worth the upgrade over felt paper. Ice and water shield should be used at eaves and valleys.
• Flashing: $500–$1,500. Critical around chimneys, vents, skylights, and wall-to-roof transitions. Reusing old flashing is a common corner that gets cut.
• Ridge vent and ventilation: $400–$1,000. Proper attic ventilation extends roof life and reduces energy costs. If it's not on the quote, ask about it.
• Drip edge: $300–$600. Required by code in most jurisdictions. If it's missing from the quote, the contractor might not be pulling permits.
• Cleanup and haul-away: Should be included. Magnetic nail sweeps of your yard and driveway are standard practice.

• "Storm chaser" contractors: If someone knocks on your door after a storm offering a free inspection and an insurance claim, be cautious. Many are fly-by-night operations that do shoddy work and disappear.
• No manufacturer warranty registration: A good roofer installs shingles per the manufacturer's specs and registers the warranty. Ask if they're a certified installer for the brand they're using.
• Vague material specs: "Asphalt shingles" isn't enough. You need the manufacturer, product line, and color. The difference between CertainTeed Landmark and GAF Royal Sovereign is significant.
• No mention of permits: Most municipalities require permits for roof replacements. If your contractor doesn't pull permits, their work won't be inspected, and you could have issues selling your home.
• Extremely fast timeline: A residential roof replacement typically takes 1–3 days for a crew of 4–6. If someone quotes 4 hours, they're cutting corners.

• Are you licensed and insured in this state? (Verify independently.)
• Will you pull the permits, and are inspection costs included?
• What happens if you find damaged decking after tear-off? What's the per-sheet charge?
• What specific underlayment and flashing materials will you use?
• What manufacturer warranty will I receive, and are you a certified installer?
• What is your workmanship warranty, and is it in writing?
• Who is the project lead, and how do I reach them during the job?

A contractor who can't answer these clearly isn't someone you want on your roof.