These are fully installed prices per standard-sized double-hung window (roughly 36×60 inches) in 2025–2026:

• Vinyl (builder grade): $350–$550/window. Basic vinyl from brands like Simonton or Ply Gem. Fine for rentals and budget-conscious projects. 15–20 year lifespan.
• Vinyl (mid-range): $550–$900/window. Better quality vinyl from Pella 250 Series, Andersen 100 Series, or Milgard. Better hardware, seals, and glass packages. 25–30 year lifespan.
• Vinyl (premium): $800–$1,200/window. Top-tier vinyl like Pella Lifestyle or Marvin Essential. Welded frames, superior weatherstripping, and triple-pane options.
• Fiberglass: $800–$1,500/window. Stronger and more dimensionally stable than vinyl. Brands like Marvin Elevate, Pella Impervia, and Andersen A-Series fiberglass. Excellent for extreme climates.
• Wood interior/aluminum clad exterior: $1,000–$1,800/window. Premium option from Andersen, Marvin, and Pella. Beautiful wood interior with weather-resistant exterior cladding. 30+ year lifespan.
• Full wood: $1,200–$2,500/window. Highest-end option for historic homes or luxury builds. Requires periodic maintenance. Marvin Ultimate and Pella Architect Series.

For a typical home with 15–20 windows, expect $8,000–$13,500 for mid-range vinyl or $15,000–$30,000 for fiberglass/wood-clad.

• Window size and type: Standard double-hung windows are cheapest. Picture windows, casements, bay/bow windows, and custom shapes cost 20–100% more.
• Glass packages: Standard dual-pane Low-E is baseline. Triple-pane adds $75–$150 per window. Impact-rated glass for hurricane zones adds $100–$300 per window.
• Full-frame vs. insert installation: Insert (or "pocket") installation fits the new window into the existing frame — it's faster and cheaper ($200–$400/window for labor). Full-frame installation removes the entire old window and frame — it costs more ($400–$700/window for labor) but allows for proper inspection and replacement of any rotted framing.
• Interior trim and finishing: After full-frame installation, interior trim needs to be replaced. $50–$150 per window for standard casing. If you want matching custom trim, it costs more.
• Lead paint: Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint around windows. Certified lead-safe practices add $100–$300 per window. This is required by EPA regulations — not optional.
• Second-story and hard-to-access windows: Add $50–$150 per window for scaffolding and additional labor.

• High-pressure in-home sales: If a window company sends a "sales consultant" to your home for a 2-hour presentation and the price drops $5,000 if you "sign today," you're dealing with a high-pressure outfit. Their initial prices are inflated to make the "discount" seem huge. Companies like this often charge $1,500–$2,500 per window for the same quality you can get for $600–$900.
• Lifetime warranty claims: Read the fine print. Many "lifetime" window warranties only cover the glass seal (not the frame or hardware), are prorated after 10–20 years, and are non-transferable to new homeowners. Ask for the actual warranty document before signing.
• "Energy savings will pay for the windows": Window replacement does save energy, but the payback period is typically 15–25 years. Anyone claiming your new windows will "pay for themselves in 5 years" is exaggerating. Replace windows for comfort, aesthetics, and home value — not energy savings alone.
• No mention of installation method: A quote that doesn't specify insert vs. full-frame installation is incomplete. This is the biggest variable in both cost and quality. Always ask.
• Vinyl windows over $1,200 each: Unless they're custom-sized or triple-pane, vinyl windows should not cost over $1,200 installed. If a company is quoting $1,500+ for standard vinyl, they're overcharging.

• Compare price per window, not total project cost: Quotes may cover different numbers of windows. Calculate the per-window price to compare apples to apples.
• Match the brand and product line: "Vinyl windows" isn't specific enough. Compare by exact product line (e.g., Pella 250 Series vs. Andersen 100 Series).
• Check glass specs: U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) matter for energy efficiency. Lower U-factor = better insulation. Ask for Energy Star certification details.
• Verify the installer: Who does the actual installation? Some companies use subcontractors who may not be held to the same standards. Ask if installers are W-2 employees or subcontracted.
• Ask about structural inspection: During full-frame installation, the contractor should inspect for water damage, mold, and rot around the window openings. If they find issues, how is that priced?